In a sunwear designer’s mind, the foundation of creating a new sunglass lies in this million-dollar question. There’s so much to consider: wearability, comfort, weight, fit, adjustability, use of color, etc. As retailers, it’s beneficial to know the pros and cons of metal vs. plastic frames when helping customers decide what their best sunglass choice is. We’ve enlisted the help of sunwear designers from across the industry to tackle this dilemma. Here’s what they had to say on why they prefer to use one frame material over the other.
NICOLAS ROSEILLIER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, REM EYEWEAR (LUCKY BRAND, CONVERSE, JOHN VARVATOS)
“My background in architecture often influences my choices, and I prefer to work with acetate. It is all about volume and line, more so than metal. I’m always looking for a new treatment with a goal toward rich colors and deep texture. I love the mix of acetate fronts and metal temples, and the best way to keep it light and comfortable is to use the right material, such as beta titanium, on the temples. Mixing the right materials is key; then it’s all about adjustment.”
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John Varvatos,
Style No. V751
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DAVID SPENCER, DESIGNER, OGI EYEWEAR (OGI, SERAPHIN)
“I prefer plastic as it usually fits closer to the face and does a better job in blocking peripheral glare. I also tend to vary thicknesses more in plastics, which allows more freedom in creativity. However, with acetate, you need to be more careful because the size can be an issue for a customer with higher cheekbones. As for metals, nosepads offer additional fit options, and can give a crisp, clean image of simple pure design without a lot of embellishment.”
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Ray-Ban,
Style No. RB03025
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FRAN PASS, DIRECTOR PRODUCT, LUXOTTICA GROUP (D&G, PRADA, RAY-BAN, VERSACE, CHANEL, PERSOL, ETC.)
“When you design in plastic, you can create a lot of unique detailing, such as when you cut into the plastic which gives the ability to create many special effects in color and illusions. Plastic frames tend to be more comfortable for many people; although if it is a larger oversized sunglass, it can often get heavy so it’s important to use a plastic lens. When designing metal frames, you have the ability to get a jewelry quality in detailing and coloration. This can create a very elegant result. But of course, trends go in cycles: plastic, metal, plastic, metal… and since plastic has been ‘in’ for quite some time now, people need something different to expand their sunglass wardrobe, which is where metal comes in. There have also been greater advances made in the metal side than on the plastic side, with more tech savvy components in metal frames.”
CHRISTOPHER MCDONALD, CEO, JEE VICE
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Jee Vice, Heated
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“We prefer designing in plastic as we work by hand and can create 3-D prototypes. With plastics, we have a much wider color palette to work; in addition, all Jee Vice frames are handpainted. Plastic also makes it easier to play with shapes and volume. It is another way of being creative and offering the consumer more choice. We use grilamid as our frame material which is very durable and lightweight and maximizes comfort. When we do create combination frames, we tend to use lightweight metals such as titanium to reduce the weight of the frame.”
DANI LAGACE, DIRECTOR OF EYEWEAR PRODUCT & MARKETING, BUSHNELL (SERENGETI, BOLLÉ)
“I always enjoy working with mixed materials, which can lead to some really interesting and aesthetically pleasing results. The really cool thing about metal frames is the ability to engineer them to have spring-like qualities. Serengeti’s Flex Series glasses automatically adjust to the contours of the wearer’s head while delivering the refined look of a classic metal frame. Nylon and acetate materials are extremely versatile in terms of color, and can be molded or handmade—two qualities that typically make designers very happy because just about any design is achievable. Nylon frames have been on trend and can be very versatile with the fusion of fashion and sport. You can now wear the same frame for sporting activities that you can wear out with friends. We avoid adding heavy accents on all of our products. We use metal where appropriate to enhance the frame, and avoid the material in a manner that might compromise the comfort of our plastic frames.”
ERIC JEAN, DESIGNER, ZILLI EYEWEAR
“It depends on who you are designing for. For women, I prefer to work with handmade acetate. There is a larger choice of colors as a result of acetate layering, which also allows for a sharp, elegant cutting effect. I am also able to add beautiful metal endpieces onto the acetate temples. From a customer standpoint, the acetate allows for a comfortable experience when the nose is well designed and the softness of the material is sensuous to the touch. For men’s frames, I absolutely prefer metal, particularly titanium. Thin rims or flat sheet designs make the frames trendy and super light to wear, even with oversized front shapes. Metal also allows for a variety of finishings: satin, matte, brushed, and antic, among others. A wider range of delicate color plating is also possible, from lights to darks, light browns to dark chocolates to ink blues, and a number of blacks, golds, and silvers. For an elegant but fashion-forward effect, I would mix titanium front shapes with matching or contrasting acetate temples, which we decided to incorporate into ZILLI’s new menswear sunglasses collection.
JENNIFER COPPEL, MANAGER OF PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT, CLEARVISION OPTICAL
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Cole Haan,
Style No. 665
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(BCBGMAXAZRIA, COLE HAAN, IZOD, ETC.)
“Large, dramatic shapes are better expressed in acetate, and there are a multitude of techniques a designer can use to sculpt and decorate the frame. For example, beveling and sculpting the front and temples of a frame is very trendy right now. With an acetate frame, the results are much more pronounced than with a metal one. When using laminated materials, we can also cut through to the second layer of a laminate to expose a new color or use color blocking and have an exciting ‘pop’ color on the inside of the frame (without disrupting the salability of the color on the exterior). We often use hollowed-out castings, stamped sheet metal, and lighter weight base materials to keep the overall weight of a frame down. From a design perspective, we employ piercing and lasering to add drama to a temple and reduce weight. Retailers who wish to steer consumers toward metals should focus on style, adjustability, and lasting quality. There are some very hip metal frames in the market that express attitude, as well as some looks that are simple with an edge. Metal frames are often more practical in that they will hold their adjustment and fit longer while provide long-lasting quality." |
